I didn´t want to leave Dhermi, after a big climb up to the “highway” (minus the cars). The scenery turns spectacular again.

I´VE TAKEN MORE PHOTOS HERE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE.

ALL THE VILLAGES I PASS THROUGH ARE AMAZING, THEY ARE JUST CLINGING FROM THE MANY HILLSIDES.

ALBANIA HAS SOME OF THE MOST DRAMATIC AND SAFEST BIKING I´VE EXPERIENCED ON THIS WHOLE TRIP.

ALBANIA HAD SO MANY ISOLATED BEACH RESORTS.
It´s getting late and I need to find accommodation.

I PHOTOGRAPHED THIS FROM THE NEW BRIDGE.

THIS LOOKS LIKE MY NEW TOWN
I check a local hotel (free wifi on the sign), they want $40. No. I ride to the beach and there´s some grass shacks on the beach and a olive orchard. I pick the olive orchard. I started to set uo camp and I heard this snorting sound, I look over and see 3 pigs running by. I´m thinking their wild boars (they attack).

SO I SET 2 PILES OF ROCKS NEXT TO WHERE I SLEEP, JUST IN CASE!

SO THEY NEXT MORNING I´M VISITED BY MOMMA PIG, 300LBS, 150KG HUGE!
As I lay there, a local farmer is herding his 20 sheep by me. Then the cows are eating there way by me too. I was visited by pigs, sheep and cows, I´m feel like I´m doing a home farm stay.

BIG MOUNTAINS AND SANDY BEACHES (doesn´t get any better)
The google map shows that if I follow the beach road there´s a road up to the highway at the end. I find a cafe and plug in my phone, just as the power goes out. It goes out everyday, nobody knows when it will come back on. I got a coffee just in time. I find out the road doesn´t go through.

WHILE ENJOYING MY SEASIDE COFFEE, IN ALBANIA, ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN.
I grab my phone and head back to get up on the highway.

IT TOOK ALMOST 2 HOURS TO GET BACK TO MY “SHORT CUT” SPOT ON THE HIGHWAY.

NICE POWER POLE

THOSE DARK DISKS ON THE TABLE ARE FIGS, I BOUGHT MY SECOND ONE HERE. THE AMERICAN FLAG IS EVERYWHERE IN ALBANIA.

I stop for lunch, since there´s virtually no cars eating on the road is a good option for simplicity.

IN ALBANIA, ANYONE OR ANYTHING CAN WALK BY,
They are so causal about using the “carfree” highway.

YOU CAN SEE THEY TAKE THE WHOLE ROAD ON A CURVE, NO PROBLEM!
The biking on this route has been great, but Saranda is getting closer and I´m glad. That road from Vlora to Saranda was tough.
The last 10km was pretty flat.

Traveling in the off season has so many advantages, the weather, no crowds, and

I GOT THE HOTEL IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PHOTO FOR $20.
Food is so inexpensive here, I´ve been carry food for a month, it was cheaper to eat out than cook.
ALL THE ALBANIAN  PHOTOS CAN BE SEEN HERE
THANKS FOR READING, AND GO RIDE YOUR BIKE BECAUSE IT´S THE RIGHT THING TO DO.
JEFF
NEXT: KASMIL AND FINAL THOUGHTS ON ALBANIA

I didn´t wanr to leave my little cabin on the mountain, but I must keep moving

I HAD TO TAKE THIS FAREWELL PHOTO
I´m at the top and it´s all down hill (walking). I wonder if disk brakes would work in these hills?

STONE RESTAURANT IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE OVER LOOKING THE OCEAN.

SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS ARE OCCUPIED WITH THESE MEMORIALS

I TOOK LOTS OF PHOTOS ALONG HERE, IT WAS STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL.

THE VIEWS ARE AMAZING
The traffic has dropped to nothing, sometimes it´s twenty minutes between cars and the road is in nearly perfect condition. The temperature is 75f, 25c, perfect biking weather.

I LAND AT DHERMI BEACH
There is suppose to be the ECO-HOSTEL here? I can’t find it. So I ask someone and she shows me a beachside cottage for $15 a night.
.

I STAY THREE DAYS AND GO SWIMMING EVERYDAY, I DON’T WANT TO LEAVE
I could only find WIFI at the HOTEL SPLENDOR I sat there for 6 hours working on a blogpost.

SO I ORDERED THIS SALAD WITH GRILLED CALAMARI TO HELP RELIEVE MY GUILT FOR SITTING THERE ALL DAY.

THE HOTEL SPLENDOR WAS PRETTY AMAZING: POOL, HOT TUB, SAUNA, WORKOUT ROOMS, AND MASSAGES AVAILABLE.
Traveling in the off season is not only super cheap but,

YOU GET A NICE PRIVATE BEACH RIGHT OUT YOUR DOOR

THIS IS THE BEACH DOWNTOWN DHERMI TAKEN FROM A LOCAL RESTAURANT.

YES,THIS IS MY MAN CAVE!

YEP, ANOTHER AWESOME SUNSET
I shopped at the “local” store. I think I was their best customer? Yogurt only comes plain, the white feta cheese and sausage were cut what you need, olives were bulk, only apples, potatoes and onions for produce. In America there are too many choices, I actually enjoyed the simplicity of not so many choices. I liked not having to make a choice, this is it, “take it or starve”

THIS IS A PICTURE FROM THE HELP YOURSELF COOLER. (that’s the cheese bin on the right)
It was super steep riding down from the main road to the beach. I knew the walk up wpuld be hell. I asked a couple people for a ride up in their truck, but no one was going all the way up, I walked (good boy)
I´m going to make a part III, there´s too much for one blogpost.
REMEMBER T WERE NOT GETTING ANY YOUNGER GO SEE THE WORLD SO YOU CAN SHARE IT WITH THE REST OF THE WORLD!
THERE ARE MORE SPECTACULAR PHOTOS OF THE ALBANIAN COAST HERE
THANKS FOR READING AND COMMENTING?
JEFF
NEXT? VLORA TO SARANDA PART III (visited by every farm animal)

I´m sitting here in SARANDA, Albania thinking about what I just rode. The Tirane Hostel warned me that it turned mountainous after Vlora. I´m thinking how bad can it be?

THE ROUTE CLIMBED 3000m (10,000ft) I WALKED MY BIKE ON EVERY UPHILL.

THE ROAD STARTED OUT HUGGING THE COAST.
I´ve got a10 day weather forecast of 25c (75f) and no rain. As I pedal out further from town, the traffic drops off dramatically. A couple, from Turkey, I met at the Mosque yesterday, drove by and offered me a ride. The weather and road conditions are too great, I decline their offer.

THAT´S WHERE I´M HEADED, UP AND INTO THE MOUNTAINS.

STILL WORKS!
The few cars that passed me, in both directions, were constantly honking, waving and giving me a thumbs up. I´ve never felt so welcome in a country.

THIS IS THE BEGINNING OF THE MOUNTAINS.
There were fruit stands selling just honey and some dried herbs. Were in the middle of nowhere and there´s no traffic, I have no idea who they´re selling to?

I FOUND THE SOURCE OF THE HONEY, THESE BRIGHTLY PAINTED BEE BOXES.

I PASSED VERY FEW VILLAGES, THIS HILLSIDE VILLAGE WAS BEAUTIFUL.
The road for the most part was in very good condition.

SOME SECTIONS OFTHE ROAD WERE MISSING, BUT THE VIEWS WERE STILL AMAZING
I never saw anyone working on the roads. As I rounded the bend I saw a sign that indicated “road work ahead”, I got a little excited!

THE ROAD CREW WAS SLEEPING IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DAY. ONE GUY IS LAYING ON THE GROUND (behind the van) AND THE OTHER WAS SLUMPED OVER IN THE DRIVERS SEAT OF THE VAN.

I FINALLY MAKE IT TO LLOGARAJA PASS NATIONAL PARK.
These next photos are of the bay looking back to where I came from, as I climb (walk) the mountain.

I get to what I think is the top and have 2 coffees. The owner brings me some clear “fire” water. I took a sip for him, but I´m a non-drinker, it was super strong. I felt bad but I left it on the table, I couldn´t choke it down, not even for him. I thought I was done climbing, no.

ANOTHER 45 MINUTES AND I´M AT THE TOP! (FINALLY)
I need to find some accommodation, camping or hotel, whatever, the sun is going down fast. I have been eyeing all these half built hotels and apartments. thinking they would make for some interesting stealth camping. Just down from the pass is

THIS UNFINISHED HOTEL WITH CABINS, THAT HAVE MY NAME ON THEM
I clean-up one of the cabins and make a nice sleeping area. I can´t believe where I´m staying

THE VIEWS ARE FANTASTIC FROM THE UNFINISHED RESTAURANT.

THIS WAS MY CABIN.

THIS IS THE SUNRISE FROM THE RESTAURANT.

VIEW OUT OF THE CABIN.

I´M THE BLUE DOT.

INTERESTING MORNING IMAGES
I consider for a moment staying another night, but water is a problem. I can carry enough water for 1 day of meals including coffee.
I need to break this blog segment into several parts, there´s too many photos and stories for one post.
SEE MORE PHOTOS HERE
AGAIN THANKS FOR READING AND REMEMBER TO RIDE YOUR BIKE, WHILE YOU STILL CAN!
RIDE ON,
JEFF
NEXT? VLORA TO SARANDA: MOST CHALLENGING AND SPECTACULAR RIDE (PART II)

I arrived and searched for a hotel. It´s the low season and hotels are cheap, most campgrounds are closed. The weather is perfect for biking, 75F or 25C. I´m waiting out a rain storm in town, perfect for musueming. The Lonely Planet Guide book really talks up the museums here.
VLORA is a coastal town. Packed with people in the summer and vacant now.

IT´S JUST AS NICE WITH OR WITHOUT TOURIST.
I rode to both ends of town, my bike was dirty. Albania has more car washes than cars! Not Really, but let me just say, I´m biking in the middle of nowhere and there,s a car wash not one but several. Are Albanians obsessed with a clean car or what? Yes and the roads are rough and dirty so to speak. Anyway my bike needs a cleaning, I toothbrush the chain with detergent. They then spray my bike with soap then power wash it.

NICE AND CLEAN AND READY FOR SOME CHAIN LUBE (red).
I head for the Ethnographic Museum first.
The Ethnographic museum is built in a traditional Vlora house, the construction of which dates back to the middle of 19th century. The collection of this museum consists of about 300 objects of authentic values like clothes, wood-works, metalwork, carpets and ceramics. In the great number and variety of objects we may mention: the shirt and waistcoat of Kanina, 150 years old, women clothes, more than one century old, rugs, carpets worked out 80-90 years ago, filigree works, utility wooden objects worked by handicraft masters of Vlorë region.

THE CARPETS WERE BETTER THAN ANYTHING I SAW IN MOROCCO.
They had a small pile of them, I tried to buy one, NO. It must be a lost art, I tried to find a shop selling them but no again.

THESE SHOES WERE MADE FROM A CAR TIRE.

THIS COW HORN WAS CARVED INTO A SHARK, PRETTY AWESOME
Next I head to the HISTORIC MUSEUM
The Historic MuseumIt was founded in 1962 and is located in the city center. There are historical and archaeological items of the entire district of Vlora. They date back beginning from the Bronze Age to documents of recent years, and include objects and relics from the medieval, renaissance and modern times. They had a mix of everything, Roman Columns and machine guns. It was being remodeled but I was able to take a quick walk through.

ALBANIA GOT IT´S INDEPENDANCE IN 1912 AND THIS IS THE STATUE TO SYMBOLIZE THAT EVENT.
I´m off to the Independence Museum
Independence Museum is placed in the building where the first Albanian Government worked in 1913. It is a urban two-stores Vlora building and it was declared a cultural monument. This museum consists of eight rooms equipped with original 19th century furniture. Many authentic objects and relics, documents, editions, works of art, etc. are exhibited in this museum. The most important parts of this museum are the office of the first Albanian Prime Minister, Ismail Qemali and the Provisional Government Conference Room. Should be mentioned that the government of the first Albanian state worked for six months in the Independence Museum building.
Many original documents and items of the time like flags, correspondence of the period prior to the proclamation of independence and other objects of cultural and historic value are displayed in this museum.
The U.S.A. sent a peice of art to help them celebrate their state hood.

IT´S A CARVED SHELL FROM THE USA, REMEMBER IT´S 1912!
The art was great to

I REALLY LOVE ALBANIAN ART

CHECK OUT THE ALBANIAN FLAG CARVED INTO CHAIR.
The museum employees invited me for coffee after the tour.

Exploring a city by bike is the best. I capture more images than I ever would walking. Like these 2 women weeding the plaza with shovels.

IT´S AMAZING, YOU CAN ACTUALLY GET RID OF WEEDS WITHOUT USING ROUND-UP.

A PICTURE OF VLORA TAKEN FROM SOUTH OF TOWN.

THIS GUY WAS SELLING SOME KIND OF EEL? BY BIKE!

THIS IS THE EXPRESSION AFTER THE PERSON YOU ASK TO TAKE A PHOTO DROPS THE I-PHONE ON THE SIDEWALK.
VLORA was a great place to wait out the storms, the museums were high quality (not quantity). Being the birthplace of Albanians Independence, made it an important place in Albanian history.
It´s time to go, I´ve got a 10 day forecast of 75f or 25c and no rain!
PHOTOS CAN BE SEEN HERE
Thanks for reading and remember to ride your bike!
Jeff
NEXT? VLORA TO SARANDA THE MOST CHALLENING AND SPECTACULAR RIDING OF THE WHOLE TRIP

I take the bus from Shkoder to Tirana, usually the road between to major destinations is busy, this one is no different. Good decision, the road is narrow, fast and crowded. I board the bus and grab a seat, then i inspect my seat choice.

THE BUS WINDOW IS FILLED WITH WATER.
I can´t see out the window, as the bus empties I move to a view seat. I spot a couple cycle touring, doesn´t look too fun. The bus drops me off, I don´t see one cyclist on my pedal to the Hostel. I left Shkoder too soon, TIRANA is the capital and very busy.
I chose the TIRANA BACKPACKERS HOSTEL because of their bike knowledge. So I got my directions for the museums, farmers market, gypsy camp, and an awesome restaurant. I go to the Art Museum first.

ALBANIA TRADITIONAL DRESS, ALL THE “LOCAL” ART WAS OUTSTANDING (check Albanian photos for more art paintings)
But this next photo is a part of recent history. In December 1990 the last Stalin statue in Europe was pulled down.

THIS IS WHERE LENIN AND STALIN SIT NOW, BEHIND THE ART MUSEUM, COVERED!
Walking the street offers opportunities that biking doesn´t like the

APPLE BICYCLE CART, PRETTY COOL
I go to the HISTORY MUSEUM rumor says it´s not great, but actually i saw a couple interesting things. The huge stamp collection focused on historical periods in history, there was a large bicycle series.
I head the the open market, It´s actually pretty interesting

HUNDREDS OF UN-PAIRED SHOES, EVERYWHERE.

then I saw this fun bike shirt

“CAKEWALK YOURSELF” (they only had it in a small)
I bought everything I needed to make a dinner, prawns, tomato, broccoli, onion. Every time I buy something, they always give me something extra. I bought a melon and later he waved me over and gave me a cucumber. When I bought a shirt, she gave me a key chain. I was given post cards. This is from a country that pays their teachers $300 a month.
The last time I got fresh ground coffee was Barcelona (Starbucks), I was giving up. The poorest country I visit has fresh ground roasted coffee.

AMERICAN DUCK TAPE GETTING THE JOB DONE AT THE HOSTEL
The cyclist I saw from the bus show up at the hostel.

THE FUN PART OF CYCLING, FIXING A FLAT AND GETTING GREASY!
I sometimes read about the Roma/Gypsy being moved, well this is where they end up

THERE ARE MORE PHOTOS OF THE ENCAMPMENT IN PHOTO GALLERY

HOW ABOUT A LITTLE BBQ GOAT/SHEEP? HEAD FOR LUNCH?

TRYING TO RIDE OUT OF TOWN, THE BIKE LANES ARE USED AS PARKING, EVERYWHERE
I´m riding to Duress on the coast, an easy 40km. The road is so beat up, I´ve been mountain biking on trails that are smoother than the roads here.

ONCE YOU GET 5-10 KM FROM TOWN THE TRAFFIC DROPS OFF.

I CAN´T FIND THE CARD, BUT THE HOTELS ARE $15-$20 A NIGHT ON THE BEACH. Off season has it´s advantages
.

THE BACKROADS OF ALBANIA CAN BE CHALLENGING

THIS GUY WAS AWESOME, CUSTOM MADE WOOD FIRED PIZZA ($3) I had one both nights in FIER, Albania.

I MUST HAVE SEEN 10 DIFFERENT PEOPLE HERDING THEIR TURKEY´S. Turkey is my favorite meat, I´m looking to order it, but can´t find it yet?
I kept seeing these stuffed animals hanging from houses under construction.

THE STUFFED ANIMALS ARE USED TO WARD OFF EVIL SPIRITS.
I decide to take the scenic route along a lagoon and avoid the traffic.

THERE WERE THESE AWESOME CEMENT WITH STONE INLAY TABLES AND CHAIRS. Some one should import these?
The “highway” fruit stands were awesome.

THEY WERE SELLING POTATOES FOR 16 CENTS A POUND.
I took the taxi out to visit APOLLONIA.

IT´S SAID THAT JULIAS CEASAR HUNG OUT HERE IN THE DAY
More interesting than that was Albania’s leader ENVER HOXHA built 700,000 bunkers.

THIS IS AN EXAMPLE OF MILITARY WASTE, THEY COULD HAVE USED ALL THOSE RESOURCES FOR HOUSING OR ROADS (which they need)

THE STONE MOSAICS WERE AMAZING

THE DIFFERENT COLORS ARE SORTED COLORED STONES

.

RIDING INTO VLORE, ALBANIA.
There is so much to write about, but I´m going to end it here for now
TO VIEW THE ALBANIA PHOTOS CLICK HERE
THANKS FOR READING
RIDE ON
JEFF
NEXT? VLORE, MUSEUM CITY OF ALBANIA?

COFFEE SHOP PHOTO (didn’t load the first time?)

I HAD NO IDEA HOW WELCOMING IT WAS GOING TO BE.
I rode from Ulcij, Montenegro to SHKODRA ALBANIA. It was a beautiful day. I´ve said before, you cross the border , you enter another world (country). Albania was more different than anything I´ve seen on this trip. While riding the the road kids would cross the street to “high five” me.
The photo images were many:

LISTENING TO AMERICA COMPLAIN ABOUT PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION? TRY RIDING THIS TO WORK.
ALBANIA is a country in transition. This photo really helps show that.

TALKING AND DRIVING? IS THIS SAFE?
Recycling seemed non existent here. Then I pass a father/son recycling team. They were picking up plastic along the road.

I PAID THEM A LITTLE MONEY FOR THIS PHOTO.
I meet the Spanish cyclists, again, at the bridge to Shkoder. We agree to find a hostel room to share. We bike into town and a French couple joins us looking for a room too. Now I´m “leading” in the search. A car pulls over and offers us a room. Thank you for saving me. We follow him through town, but I make a wrong turn and it takes half an hour to regroup. The Hostel is awesome, a brand new place called the UNIT HOSTEL. I take a walk downtown and take this special photo.

I GOT THIS PHOTO ON MY FIRST NIGHT OUT.
The Italian Hostel guest wanted to cook dinner for everyone, we let him!

NO ENGLISH BUT A LOT OF LAUGHING, WITH A LITTLE SPANISH THROWN IN.
The other cyclist all left in the morning. Not me, this is a great place, I start noticing all the cyclist riding around town.

THEY ALL BIKED TO THE HOSTEL, NEVER LEFT, RODE OUT IN THE MORNING.
I´m so done with constantly moving, Shkoder is a town worth visiting for awhile. The large amount of Cyclist has caught my attention. I learn that Shkoder is the BICYCLE CITY of Albania. The first bicycle in Shkoder was brought by a Swedish diplomat, first called the “devil´s cart”, then widley accepted. (read the link).

I READ THEY HAVE A 25-29% BIKE USAGE AND WITHOUT ANY BIKE INFRASTRUCTURE TO SPEAK OF.
The first order of the day is to get a SIM card for my phone.

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED AND WITH STYLE!
There are basically two must see attractions here the MES BRIDGE and the ROZAFA CASTLE. I choose to ride to the bridge first, since it´s suppose to rain tomorrow.

THIS IS PART OF THE ROAD TO THE MES BRIDGE, I RODE THE SIDEWALK, (watch out!).

THE BRIDGE WAS BUILT IN 1780.
I decide to keep riding further from town and find this restaurant, in the middle of nowhere, over looking the river.

THEY HAD WIFI AND I CALLED A FEW PEOPLE, HEY LOOK!
I got numerous photos so I had to pick?

WOULD YOU PARK YOUR CAR HERE? (me? NO!)
There are many “unfinished” houses, the owners are sometimes overseas working and return with more money to finish.

THIS IS JUST ONE OF THE HUNDREDS I´VE SEEN.
I ride back to town and visit the old bridge and fishing spot. They were pulling up BIG Carp.

THE GYPSIES/ROMA live “on the other side of the river from town” at the end of the bridge.
I like taking sign photos and bicycle images:

TEA IS THE COMPANY NAME AND SHITE MEANS “SALE”, “sale & buy Insurance” but TEA SHIT works.

RIDING IN THE RAIN

I´M HAVING THIS PHOTO PAINTED BY A LOCAL ARTIST.

I LOVE THIS IMAGE.

THIS IS THE ALLEY I WALK TO MY HOSTEL, WELL LITE!
Attention Portland beer consumers, this is an interesting way to have “cold” beer at your table.

THERE IS AN ICE FILLED TUBE THAT RUNS DOWN THE MIDDLE TO KEEP THE BEER COLD. 100 LEKE = $1.
I buy a chicken for dinner, when I get home, the Italians are cooking again! I de-bone the chicken and put it on the cutting board and pasta with cheese!

I´M HAVING SO MUCH FUN HERE, I DON´T WANT TO LEAVE! (I did all the dishes, they liked that)

THIS BIKE ART SCULPTURE WAS ON A MAJOR ROUND-ABOUT IN TOWN
I love the bicycle vibe here in Skhoder.

I DIDN´T HAVE THE COURAGE TO ASK FOR A FRONT SHOT.
They LOVE America here, when I tell them I´m from the USA, they always say “America #1”. W. Bush visited here in 2007, they named a street after him and had a STATUE made too. I heard there was a museum where they had stuff like the chair he sat in. OK? They love America here as you can see.

NOTICE THE RED, WHITE AND BLUE COLOR SCHEME “ALL AMERICAN”
The Unit Hostel is a huge project, there was always something going on. I spent my last night working on the Blog. The lights were flickering on and off, so we chased down some candles.

NENSI AND LLVA CAME BY SEVERAL TIMES TO APPLY MULTIPLE COATS OF PAINT ON THE RECEPTION DESK.
I´ve done most of what this town has to offer, ordered a painting, it´s time to get down the road. I don´t want to leave it feels like home and Shkoder is a charming place.

THE GIRLS STOP BY TO CHECK THEIR DRY PAINTING PROJECT AND TAKE THIS GOOD-BYE PHOTO.
I pack my bags, load the bike and ride to catch the bus to Tirana. The “bus stop” is a spot along the street, no official bus station.

I LOVE THE MANY BICYCLE IMAGES IN SHKODER, I´LL MISS THIS PLACE.
TO THE PEOPLE WHO WRITE EMAILS TO ME “THANK YOU.” I am so busy traveling and writing this blog I rarely have time to respond, I hope you understand and aren´t discouraged from writing me again. I spent 9 hours writing this blog post.
They ride their bike here without any bike infrastructure, so can you (get a mirror).
So Ride Your Bike
Jeff
ALBANIAN PHOTOS CAN BE SEEN HERE
NEXT? TIRANA: WHAT HAPPENED TO STALIN AND LENIN?