In Latvia the Euro-Velo route goes down a busy main road. I saw it from the bus coming up. Didn’t look good and I was right. Some of the most dangerous riding I’ve done in awhile. I pushed it to Camping “Jūrasdzeņi”. The weather is blustery (rainy & windy), but stops after I get to camp. You can set your tent up, right next to the ocean. Another super camp site, with bathrooms, showers, kitchen and cheap!
I’m getting off the busy highway by cutting up, then heading down towards Sigulda. I have a long day, so I will need to recharge my e-bike somewhere along the way. I saw an interesting place IGATE CASTLE AND CASTLE MILL TAVERN so I marked it on my map. I stop there and unfortunately they’re closed on Monday’s (today:() The gardener offered to charge my bike and also pour me a beer. Got out my smoked salmon sandwich fixings and enjoyed lunch by the lake.
The new route is A LOT safer than the main road route. I was so proud of myself, I thought I could cut over another road and eliminate the little traffic there was. HUGE mistake, often when you leave the main road, the roads turn to dirt & rock. Just my luck they’re “rebuilding” the dirt road. Big trucks were delivering new dirt and speeding and kicking up the dust, I got dusted numerous times.
Finally made it to Sigulda and the super camping at LAKE SIDE CAMPING. There’s lots to do in Sigulda: museums, castles, bike rides and a brewery. The tourist office suggested I do a certain route along the river. She’s said it’s a bike path all the way. No it’s not!. If she was nearby I would have throttled her, just saying. Lots of broken wooden paths, steep steps, I was in a full body sweat that nearly killed me.
A
When I started yesterdays bike path disaster, I had started up a nicely paved bike path, but turned around. The next day I decided to go back there and see where it went. At the top of the hill were a cafe, super cool stone buildings and some awesome doors. I met Olga, with baby and her daughter, they invited me for coffee. She’s from Riga, but rents this one and only house in Krimuldas Pils Park. . Olga not only served me coffee, but strawberries, cherries and cake. I played bubbles with the Marta and she rode with me when I left. I don’t have kids, so this interaction was super fun for me. There were a couple of Taiwanese tourist who wanted a photo with me, I got a copy:)
It’s my last night at Lake Side Camping and a HUGE storm is expected. The other campers were taking down their tents and waiting under the various camp shelters. I ignored the warning at my own peril. The storm came with a fury, I had my back against the tent trying to keep it from collapsing. Then the tent rain fly ripped and the rain was pouring in & everything in the tent is soaked. I gathered everything up and ran for a shelter. I preach taking advice and I didn’t take the advice about the storm, I’m an idiot. Luckily there was a B&B next to camping that had one room available. I still wanted to visit KUSSH BREWERY. So I turned my room into a drying room and headed out. Kuush had super beer and they are super guys. They had upstairs game room and more room for future expansion, it’s a must visit.
I used Komoot for my route from Sigulda to Riga. With Komoot, anything can happen and it did. For awhile you’re on the freeway that has a 3-4 meter shoulder. I spot other cyclist actually riding the freeway too. Then the Komoot route veers off, a little asphalt for awhile, then sand and it was hell. I checked the map and saw a short-cut back to the freeway. After a while on the freeway the proper dedicated bike lane started.
RIGA
I have a super nice AIRBnB on the ground floor, easy in easy out with the bike. I got in on Friday and settled. I heard that the Riga farmers market is awesome, and it is!. I kick myself for not taking more photos and video of the market. I think it’s the best farmers market I’ve ever seen in Europe. I bought cherries, zuchhini, chantrells, garlic, onion peppers and made an egg scramble. There was more food than people. I walked around town to check out the crafts shops and tourist sights.
Olga told me about the beach outside Riga, that is worth a visit. It turned out to be the best thing I did in Riga (I’m a biker) There’s a 20km bike path all off road, through the forest. If you build it, they will come. Everyone was there: young, old, families, bikers, runners even the wheelchair bound enjoyed the safety of the dedicated bike lane.
I tried to go to a museum everyday, the following photos are a mix of history, art and culture of Latvija.from different museums. When Latvia was an independent country, the 3 stars represented the 3 regions of Latvija. When Russia occupied the Baltics, they claimed the three stars represented the 3 Baltic countries, as theirs. Russia hasn’t changed, still wants to rule everyone.
Thank you Riga and Latvija. I had a super time, felt safe, you’re very approachable and very affordable. The bummer is the neighborhood, specifically Belarus & Russia. But being part of NATO is a good thing. Had Ukraine been part of NATO, I suspect Russia would have stayed on their side of the border.
Yes this blog is about Climate Friendly Travel by answering the question “Can I experience a country without using a plane or a car?” I’m 68 years old, the e-bike allows me to enjoy the countryside and rip up the city. You’re never to old to live the life.
Thanks for reading,
Jeff
NEXT: LITHUANIA
