Several Estonians told me “We have all the islands, Latvia doesn’t have any”
Hey, rest of the world. When citizens needs are met crime doesn’t seem to be an huge issue. The snack bar on the ferry is self-service, I was a little shocked. That would NEVER work in America. There’s a full service restaurant on board too.
HIIUMAA ISLAND
I first saw a few thatched roofs in Hungary and Slovenia a few years ago. They’re suppose to last as long as 40 years. When I got off the ferry and rode a little, I spotted one being installed & talked with the contractor installing it. I rode to my first camping on the island of Hiiumaa, Roograhu kämping It’s situated near the sea with a little marina and pizza restaurant. I arrived about 5, ordered a beer and sat outside. I went back in to order a pizza, but the waitress failed to tell me they were closing in 10 minutes., no pizza for me. Luckily I had a little something with me. I called the guy about the camping, he said “enjoy” and let me camp for free. There was bathroom and showers and got some laundry done too!
The next day I rode to Kärdla for some supplies (food). They had an e-bike charging station outside the grocery store. The trust thing may be going a little too far. 2 people drove up, left their cars running and went to the store to grab a few things. WTF? I called about my next potential camping spot, Villamaa puhkeküla and the guy said, “enjoy.” & I got another free night of camping with nice shower and bathroom. A couple kilometers from my camping is the restaurant Meite Möte, I had a bowl of SUPER seafood soup. The Roslep Brewery crew suggested I ride out to Kalana ÄÄR and check out the surrounding area. I wanted to have lunch but they didn’t open for another 2 hours. It was a 40km round trip, went back recharged my e-bike and headed for the ferry.
Recharged, packed up and heading to catch the ferry.
SAAREMAA ISLAND
Estonia has free campings called RMK’s, no water & dry toilets (outhouse). But includes picnic tables, fireplaces & recycling stations. Of course I forgot to get some water.
I spot Karujärve kämping on the map, they called it a youth camp and I wasn’t sure I could stay there. I read the reviews and it seemed ok. This turned out to be one of the best value accommodations I stayed at. When I rode up, I asked how much for a cabin? 30 euro, camping? 5 euro. Camping it is. Then I noticed the sign for saunas, 20 euro 1 hour. That was the best value I’ve seen in Estonia. Got a sauna igloo for the next morning. I went in and out of the crystal clear lake and sauna 5 times.
It would be easy to stay here a couple days, but it’s further down the road I go. Kuressaare made me feel like I wasn’t on an island anymore. It’s a real city, but super cute and not to be missed. I camped at the Piibelehe Guesthouse, in their backyard. Super shower, working kitchen and run with a wall of solar panels. She said the power company raised the rates so high, that lots of people got solar panels. If they produce more than they can use, they sell it back to the utility company at the high price. I met a couple of cyclists from Finland. They were leaving that day, so we went to lunch and toured the castle together.
I was checking the postcard rack in the castle museum. There was this card that caught my curiosity. The museum staff said it was the Immured Knight of Kuressaare Castle.(full story). Basically the priest had an affair, was warned the first time. The second time he was entrapped by the church & he bit. He was put in a chair and walled in alive. Years later, they opened the wall and discovered a dried up skeleton. When they touched the skeleton it disintegrated.
I rode 100 km today from Kuressaare to Paatsalu Camping It’s always good to carry some food. The campground restaurant is closed and there’s no store anywhere.
MISC. PHOTOS FROM THE DAY
I’m super excited to be finally going to Kihnu Island. I saw a travel story about it and it was the first place I marked on my Estonian map. First, I’m riding to Ermistu Puhkeküla to camp, unfortunately the weather is somewhat rainy and windy. This is another place you could stay for days. Super restaurant, awesome facilities and super hosts. It’s about 18 km from the ferry port to Kihnu. I got up early and biked to catch the 8 am ferry.
KIHNU ISLAND
This is my 4th ferry ride, it’s the longest one at 55 minutes. Plenty of time to charge my E-bike battery!. There’s literally hundreds of bikes for rent at the Kihnu port. Day trippers ride the ferry over, bike tour and go home in the evening. I was going to camp, but the campground was just soso. I did a quick search for another place, Miku talu, 5 star rating. Best decision, Vivika is the best host ever.
The island is 7km long and 3.3km wide. It’s the perfect island for biking where you can visit the lighthouse, Kihnu museum, numerous little food stands and practicing crafts along the roads.
Now for the highlight of my trip. Vivika has a motorcycle parked under the deck. I asked if it ran? “Yes”, I asked “You can start it up and drive it?” “Yep” “Can we take a ride around the island tomorrow?” “Sure” (I tried to hold back my excitement), but really I could hardly. wait.
In Slovenia I’m living in an apartment. I miss having a garden and fruit trees. Vivika had 8 apple trees that needed the apples thinned, permission granted. She said the apples were bigger this year:) The restaurants on the island have uneven hours, sometimes open and sometimes, not. Vivika made me a super salad that I added some smoked fish to it, doesn’t get much better than that.
I stayed on Kihnu island for 3 days, you could easily stay here a week. But It’s time to go. The weather is a little wild once I got off the ferry.
I’m love seeing all the stork nests. This is my second to last day of touring in Estonia. I’m heading to Mini-Camp for my last night. They were only charging 6 euro, I gave him 10 and told him it’s a Super Campground.
BUS STOP COLLECTION OF ESTONIA
I took a photo of this first bus stop because of the thatched roof. Then I started to notice, they were all different and unique. Everywhere I was there’s a bus stop. I saw the buses a couple times, there’s a schedule posted at every bus stop. So, here’s the photo collection of The Bus Stops of Estonia.
Politically, Socially and Environmentally, Estonia is similar Slovenia. What’s the big difference? SUNLIGHT, winter can have just 6 hours of sunlight. An Estonian told me last winter they had a month with just 5 hours of sun for the whole month, ouch.
ESTONIA IS #1 BIKING COUNTRY IN THE EU (so far)
Czech use to be my #1 bike country, for marked routes and driver politness. Estonia beat them on all points: 2-2.5 meter bike paths off the highway & often through the forest. The drivers? 99% drove completely in the other lane when passing me. When the bike lane ended, you were so far out in the country, there was basically no cars on the road.
Camping is super value, I paid 22 euro once, but mostly it’s around 10 euro with bathrooms, shower and kitchen facilities. If you’re up for wild camping you can bike tour for the price of your food and ferries.
I’m writing this in the evening and sweating. Climate Change is real, Please Please Please evaluate your carbon footprint when your deciding what to do next. What’s happening is so unfair to young people. The older generation (like me), enjoyed a balanced planet. No heatwaves, no flooding, no fires, no droughts. Care about your nieghbors.
THANKS FOR READING,
JEFF
NEXT: LATVIA
