I encourage all travelers to practice climate friendly travel. Staying off planes, using trains, buses, bicycles and walking as a way to explore and experience the world, without destroying it. I focus on what you can see and do without renting a car or hailing a taxi. Google maps transit application enables you to utilize local transportation options easily. The next couple posts will show you what you can see and do in the Baltic countries: Estonia, Latvija and Lithuania while practicing carbon conscious travel.
TALLINN
Everything I’ve read about Estonia, from the politics to the environment helped make it to the top of my bucket list. The Baltic’s have been in the news alot lately too, due to the proximity to the war in Ukraine. I thought I should visit soon, before they become Russia’s next target. A 36 hour bus ride from Ljubljana to Tallin and I finally arrived. I got an AirBnB for 8 days. Then I start the bicycle touring.
The annual Tallinn Beer Festival is happening a couple days after I arrive. Nearly everyone I met there was from Finland. I went to October Festival in Munich a few years ago, the scene outside the event was too much. People getting sick, fighting, falling in the bushes-people people “grow up.” This event was an “all you can drink event.” I was dreading it after my experience in Munich. But, I never saw anyone getting sick, fighting or falling down, not even close. The crowd was nothing but a great time.
I bike toured around Tallinn, riding along the Baltic sea, then ended up in a forested cemetery. It’s spring time and families were fixing up their families plots.
The bike allows you to explore the city and just outside the city, in a matter of minutes. I rode to the OPEN AIR MUSUEM, which is a historical collection of Estonian culture and older buildings. It’s huge and they thankfully, allow you to ride your bike throughout the huge museum grounds. I had a super Vegan lunch at the Bistro inside.
The one negative thing the Baltic’s have in common, they have fucked up neighbors: Russia & Belarus. There’s a Ukrainian shop in Tallinn, which I visited several times and got some Ukrainian souvenirs. There’s a protest wall, along with many anti war & anti Putin signs around town. The wall was guarded 24 hours by the police and military.
I biked out of Tallinn in every direction. I got to know my way around Tallinn, without using google maps! Rode north up the peninsula.
START OF ESTONIA BIKE TOURING
After 7 days relaxing in an AirBnB, it’s time for some biking and camping. I’m using Komoot route planning app to get out of town.
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I’m a tourist and feel lucky to be one. So of course my first stop is a tourist destination, KEILA WATERFALLS
Getting into the groove on the first day of bike touring can be a little rough. I missed a turn, but found my way to a little market to charge my E-bike battery. While sitting outside, a passerby brought me a beer, then invited me to camp in his yard (& more!). I had no idea what I got my self into. He was Polish, but spoke no English or Estonian for that matter. He fed me a super meal, invited his friend over and we (they) had a little party. They each drank a bottle of vodka from Belarus. I wouldn’t drink any, for me it’s basically poison. He said I didn’t have to set up my tent, I could sleep in his bed, huh? NO THANKS! He had a green house full of tomatoes & peppers, I was impressed.
I got up early in the morning and headed out.
One thing I always do is visit tourist offices. I spotted Nova Break OU information and Patisserie (bakery) and pulled in. She said “I’m out of everything” no problem, “I’ll just have a coffee.” She gave me some tidbits about the area, then her traditional whole wheat sour dough bread started coming out of the oven. She offered me some hot bread, just out of the oven. I haven’t had butter in 5 years, but I made an exception, Holly Cow! As I sat enjoying my coffee and bread the parade of locals stopped in to get their loaf. I chatted up all of them, great community event. I bought my own loaf and headed to the oldest wooden church in Estonia, that was just down the street.
At the beer festival in Tallinn, I was recommended to visit ROSLEP BREWERY, a brewery in the forest. I searched for camping in the area and couldn’t find any. So I wrote the owner and asked if he could help me? He sent me a map, I went down the wrong road, the trail was blocked by a fallen tree, so I set up my tent. I don’t really like “wild” camping, but I know how to. It was just down from 200 euro a night glass mirrored cabins. I stayed 2 nights, but discovered a campground just 6km away and moved there for 1 night.
I wasn’t sure I should put these signs in the blog, Karin said it was Marko’s thing. They hung around the brewery and in the bathroom. I thought they were fun(ny).
The longest I stayed anywhere was 3 days and Roslep, was one of them. There’s a Estonian holiday that is celebrated around the country with Bonfires. Wild camping makes making breakfast & coffee tough. So I went down to the local seaside cafe for a coffee and to write some postcards. I stayed the extra days for the bonfire and the salmon BBQ, great decision.
I need to post this blog. I’ve got hundreds more photos to sort out and fix-up. I was going to skip the islands, but the Crew at Roslep Brewery said “not to be missed.” The biggest advice I give to people, “take advice”, it’s pays off, believe me. So I go island hopping.
Thanks for reading and remember to practice sustainable travel at every opportunity.
Jeff
NEXT: ISLAND HOPPING IN ESTONIA
Nice! Excellent blog post as usual. Keep it up you’ll have a whole books worth.